
New Orleans’ Camellia Grill Serves Up Unique Experience If Not Much Vegan Fare

Two shakes of “Salt-n-Pepper” that is.
On Christmas Day, the Slades, family friends since childhood, invited my family to stop over for our annual holiday visit.
Gary Slade, who was a few years ahead of my sister and me in school, now lives with his lovely family in Madison, MS (near Jackson). Quite the entrepreneur, Gary, in 2001, launched Seattle Drip, a coffee drive-through business, which has grown from a single java joint to 13 in the Southeastern United States.
Recently, he schooled himself under a master roaster enabling him to add a micro-roasting operation. He now imports beans from more than a dozen countries from which he creates special blends and single origin coffees.
As a gift, Gary generously gave us a couple of bags of coffee and was especially interested to hear what I thought about the Ethiopian. Even before I visited their website and read their “The Smoothest Coffee on the Road” tag line, the overwhelming characteristic of this tasty coffee was its velvety smoothness about which I remarked to my parents. (Typically, I drink Starbucks decaf which I enjoy, but extraordinary smoothness is not necessarily one of its hallmarks. I think I’m just a sucker for the SB aesthetic, corporate culture, and overseas social consciousness.)
Stay linked to the Seattle Drip website for upcoming online purchasing opportunities, including a coffee club. In the meantime, if you or anyone you know is interested in a franchise or in fundraising opportunities, that information is currently available. And, certainly, if you live in or visit the Southeast, be sure to drive on through for a “drip” of some of the, well, smoothest coffee on the road.
On the last day of my family’s pre-Christmas trip to New Orleans (see earlier post), we left our hotel in the French Quarter on Christmas Eve morning by way of Magazine Street in search of Hazelnut Fine Gifts and Home Furnishings. My mom has a way of scouting out special places and this was one she had read about in the newspaper.
I left home on Tuesday, December 22, bound for New Orleans, LA (NOLA), to meet my family for two nights in one of our favorite cities before going to my childhood home in Laurel, MS, where I am now. (My husband and I celebrate Christmas apart, with our respective families, but then meet somewhere for our own holiday…see below.)
Annually in December, Southern Living magazine publishes what their staff has come to call “The Big White Cake” issue. And with good reason. For years, come December, a glorious confection swathed in snowy white has graced the cover of their winter holiday issue. From tiered spectacles to more humble one-pan wonders, flavors have ranged from red velvet to chocolate to peppermint and many more.
For this month’s “Veggie Table,” my column in the Virginian-Pilot, we decided to borrow a page from their playbook and create our own version of The Big White Cake, only one that is completely egg- and dairy-free. Generating ideas was not the difficult part—white goes with everything—but narrowing down the choices was.
The approach of my friend Sharon Tanner’s birthday made the decision a little easier. Tasked with bringing the cake to her party, I asked what flavor her heart most desired. “German Chocolate,” was her unequivocal response. Ah, that was easy. It’s my dad’s favorite too.
So the cake layers are deep dark, but sweet, chocolate. The recipe I chose may be made with all-purpose or cake flour and melted vegan butter or canola oil. The cake flour and oil results in a somewhat lighter cake, and the all-purpose flour and butter results in one a bit denser. Both taste delicious; just choose the texture you prefer.
Though German Chocolate Cakes are typically coconut-and-pecan filled, but not frosted, I thought the addition of my favorite vegan cream cheese frosting would be both lovely and delicious. And it is. This show-stopping dessert is so pretty that it can do double-duty as a centerpiece.
For a more holiday-ish adaptation of the traditional filling, I took my cue from Lane Cake, adding dried cranberries to the filling along with a little citrus to brighten the fruit flavor. A hint of almond extract, in addition to the traditional vanilla, enhances the flavor of the nuts and coconut. And cognac—a nip of my husband’s “good stuff” brushed on the layers and stirred into the filling—creates subtle nuances and depth of flavor.
Decorating this cake may be akin to gilding the lily, but this season of the year seems to call for going a bit over the top in the name of festivity. I created borders from piped on frosting “stars” and pecan halves. If you don’t trust yourself wielding a pastry bag, pecan halves alone are plenty pretty and lend a homespun appeal, as would finely chopped pecans or flaked coconut pressed into the sides of the cake.
Though you could stop right there and still have an extra special dessert, I decided to add a crowning touch: a little finial and a focal point on the rim of the platter made from sugar-coated fresh cranberries and kumquats. The sugaring process is so simple that you could easily prepare enough fruit to make an entire border in mere minutes (after the overnight steeping).
Easy to make, but impressive to the eyes and palate, this cake embodies the spirit of this beautiful season when it is shared with friends and family.
Happy Holidays!
Chocolate Cake:
3 cups all-purpose or cake flour (the former yields a slightly denser cake; the latter slightly lighter)
2 cups sugar
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup cocoa powder
3/4 cup canola oil or melted vegan butter (the former yields a slightly lighter cake; the latter slightly denser)
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons white vinegar
2 cups water
2 tablespoons cognac (or bourbon)
1 recipe Vegan Coconut, Pecan and Dried Cranberry Filling (recipe follows)
1 recipe Vegan Cream Cheese Buttercream Frosting (recipe follows)
Garnishes: pecan halves, finely chopped pecans, and/or flaked coconut
Optional: sugared cranberries and kumquats (instructions follow)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour two 8 or 9-inch cake pans. In the large bowl of an electric mixer, combine the dry ingredients, add the wet ones except cognac, and mix until well combined. Then beat for about 1 minute at medium speed or until smooth. Avoid over-beating. Bake for approximately 30 minutes (slightly longer for the 8-inch rounds) or until a toothpick inserted at the highest point comes out clean. Cool for 10 minutes on wire racks. Run a knife around the edges of the pans to loosen and turn out onto racks to cool. Cover layers loosely with a kitchen towel while cooling. Note: For other applications, you may bake this cake in 24 cupcake tins for 20-25 minutes or one 9 x11-inch pan for about 50 minutes.
When cake layers are cool, place the bottom tier on a serving plate and brush with one tablespoon of the cognac or bourbon. Spread with half the filling. Top with the second layer, brush it with remaining liquor, and spread with remaining filling. Frost just the sides of the cake with Vegan Cream Cheese Buttercream Frosting. Decorate as desired with optional piped on frosting stars, pecan halves and sugared fruit. In addition or alternatively, you may press finely chopped pecans or flaked coconut into the sides of the cake. Note: There will be enough frosting to pipe on a moderate amount of decoration. Refrigerate any leftovers in an airtight container for another use.
IMPORTANT NOTE: If cake layers “dome” while baking, allow them to cool and then use a serrated knife to slice off the crown of the dome. If the center of the layers is still noticeably higher than the sides, use a pastry bag or a resealable plastic bag with the corner snipped off to pipe a ring of frosting around the edge of the bottom cake layer to effectively raise the outer edge of the cake and create a “dam” for the filling. This will allow you to create a flat surface for the second layer to rest on. Do the same for the top layer to prevent the filling from spilling over the edges.
Cake recipe source: Susan Voisin and the Fatfree Vegan Kitchen
Vegan Coconut, Pecan and Dried Cranberry Filling:
1 cup unsweetened soy milk (plain, vanilla or vanilla lite would also be good)
1/3 cup coconut milk
1 ¼ cups granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
¼-1/2 teaspoon almond extract
2 tablespoons cognac or bourbon
Juice of one lemon
½-1 teaspoon of lemon zest
1/3 cup cornstarch
¼ cup water
2 cups sweetened flaked coconut
1 ½ cups pecan pieces or chopped pecans
½ cup (generous) dried cranberries
In a medium saucepan, mix the soy milk, coconut milk, sugar, extracts, cognac or bourbon, and lemon juice and zest. Whisk the cornstarch together with the water and add to soy milk mixture. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium-high heat until mixture boils and thickens. Cook and stir for one minute after it boils. Remove from heat and stir in coconut, pecans and dried cranberries. Cool to almost room temperature before spreading on layers.
Adapted from Susan Voisin and the Fatfree Vegan Kitchen. I added the dried cranberries to make the cake look more festive for the holidays, and then added the almond extract, cognac, lemon juice and zest to enhance the flavors of the other ingredients.
Vegan Cream Cheese Buttercream Frosting:
½ cup vegan butter
½ cup vegetable shortening
½ cup vegan cream cheese
1 teaspoon vanilla
¼-1/2 teaspoon almond extract
5 ½ cups powdered sugar
3 tablespoons plain soy creamer (unsweetened, plain, vanilla or vanilla lite soy milk would also work)
Cream together first three ingredients on high speed of electric mixer until creamy. Beat in extracts. Turn mixer off and add a little less than 2 cups of the powdered sugar and a tablespoon of soy creamer. Slowly turn mixer to high and beat until incorporated and fluffy. Repeat two more times until all of powdered sugar and creamer have been incorporated. Frosting should be creamy-stiff and peaks should hold their shape. If piping on decoration, you will want the frosting on the stiffer side.
Sugared Fresh Cranberries and Kumquats:
2 cups granulated sugar
2 cups water
2 cups fresh cranberries and kumquats (skin on), combined
3/4 cup granulated or superfine sugar (granulated sugar will work fine, but will lend a coarser appearance; you may pulverize granulated sugar in a food processor, if desired)
Make simple syrup: combine granulated sugar and water in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring mixture until sugar dissolves. Bring to a simmer; remove from heat. (Do not boil or the cranberries may pop when added.) Stir in fruit; pour mixture into a bowl. Cover and refrigerate 8 hours or overnight.
Drain fruit in a colander over a bowl, reserving steeping liquid, if desired. Place sugar in a shallow dish. Add the fruit, rolling to coat with sugar. Spread sugared fruits in a single layer on a waxed paper or parchment paper-lined baking sheet; let stand at room temperature 1 hour or until dry. Store in an airtight container in a cool place for up to a week.
Source: Cooking Light, December 2003
Like everyone, I love stuffing and corn pudding this time of year. So, I decided to combine those two ingredients and add spinach for beautiful green color and loads of vitamins. Silken tofu binds it all resulting in a beautifully textured, almost creamy, dish with protein aplenty. Sage, rosemary and thyme provide mellow seasonal flavors and a hint of paprika gives it a little kick.
It is delicious as is, but I felt like it needed a little zip if eaten alone. So, I made a version of my go-to Piccata sauce to which I added some left-over diced tomato. The red and green is a lovely and festive color combo and the sauce is exactly what the stuffing needed to balance its flavors.
Enjoy this soothing comfort food made healthy.
Stuffing:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 yellow onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups frozen corn
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 tablespoon dry rubbed sage
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
large pinch dried thyme
pinch paprika
Optional: 1 tablespoon nutritional yeast (I recommend including it)
3 cups vegan cornbread stuffing mix (I used Pepperidge Farm, but you have to read labels)
8 ounces fresh, pre-washed baby spinach, finely chopped in batches in food processor
1 1/2 cups vegetable stock
1/2 cup unsweetened soy milk
Preheat oven to 35o degrees. Oil a medium casserole dish. In a large cast iron skillet over medium-high, heat olive oil until shimmering. Add onion and saute, stirring frequently, until it begins to soften. Add garlic and saute, stirring occasionally, until corn is heated through and onion and garlic are soft. Stir in next 6 ingredients plus optional nutritional yeast. In a large bowl, combine corn mixture with remaining ingredients. Spoon lightly into prepared casserole dish–avoid packing–and bake, uncovered for 30 minutes. Toward the end of the baking period, make sauce.
Tomato Piccata Sauce:
1 tablespoon olive oil
2-3 large cloves garlic, minced
1 cup white wine (I like Pinot Grigio)
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons vegan butter (I like Earth Balance)
2 tablespoons plain soy creamer
2 tablespoons nutritional yeast
4 generous tablespoons canned petite diced tomatoes in juice
generous pinch of sugar
coarse sea or kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
In a large cast iron skillet over medium-high, heat olive oil until shimmering. Add garlic and saute, stirring constantly, until it softens and begins to turn golden; avoid browning. Add wine and lemon juice and cook down for a minute or two. Then stir in butter and allow to melt. Follow with creamer and heat through. Then add nutritional yeast and stir to combine. Finally, stir in tomatoes and sugar and heat through. Check for seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste. Serve over warm stuffing.
Yield: 2 large or 4 small servings
In my pre-vegan days, picatta sauces were always a favorite. Thankfully, they veganize beautifully and more healthfully. Serve this sauce over spaghetti squash instead of pasta, and give yourself all of the flavor without all the calories.
This recipe was born of the desire to use up some leftover spaghetti squash and to have a bite to eat before a chiropractic appointment, a workout–my husband is teaching the class!–a walk with my dogs and my dear friend, Iona, and an otherwise full day. So, I just whipped this up and ate the whole bowl…for breakfast. 🙂
I hope you enjoy it any time of day!